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This glossary explains a little bit about the fiber types we use in our clothing. If you have further questions, you can contact us for additional information.
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Acetate
The ester cellulose ethanoate (cellulose acetate), referred to
commercially simply as acetate, is used in fabrics, fibers, and films.
It is one of the first manufactured fibers and is soft with a crisp
feel. It has the lustrous appearance of silk and an excellent
appearance when draped. It is not a strong fiber, as its resistance to
abrasion is poor. Resists shrinkage, moths, and mildew and does not
absorb moisture readily. Its yarns are pliable and supple and will
always spring back to their original shape. It is fast drying and when
heated becomes more pliable. Acetone and alcohol dissolve acetate
fibers. Special dyes are required if it is to be colored.
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Acrylic
Acrylic resins, often called acrylics, are made by the polymerization
of acrylates or other monomers containing the acrylic group. Acrylic
compounds are thermoplastic (they soften or fuse when heated and
reharden upon cooling), are impervious to water, and have low
densities. These qualities make them suitable for the manufacture of a
variety of objects and substances, including molded structural
materials, adhesives, and textile fibers. Such fibers are used to weave
durable, easily laundered fabrics that resist shrinkage. It is a
durable fiber with a soft, woolly feel. It has an uneven surface,
making it different from most manufactured fibers. It comes in a
variety of colors, and can be dyed easily. It is resistant to sun and
chemicals.
Uses: Often used as a replacement for wool.
Bengaline
Fiber: Silk, wool, rayon, synthetics, cotton.
Weave: Crosswise rib, warp faced.
Characteristics: A corded fabric resembling poplin but with heavier
cords; it may be silk or rayon with worsted cords. First made of silk
in Bengal, India. Ribs are round and raised. Often has wool or cotton
drilling in the ribs which doesn't show. Difficult to make bound
buttonholes in it. Has a tendency to slip at the seams if too tightly
fitted. Grosgrain and Petersham is bengaline cut to ribbon widths. The
cloth is usually 40" wide. Cotele - A French term for bengaline made
from a silk or rayon warp and worsted filling which is given a hard
twist.
Uses: Coats, suits, millinery, trims, bouffant dresses with a tailored
look, mourning cloth, draperies.
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Bouclé
Fiber: Wool, also in rayon, silk, cotton, linen, blends, hair fibers.
Weave: Any weave, knit.
Characteristics: Yarn with loops, which produces a woven or knitted
fabric with rough appearance. A drawn out or ringed, looped yarn is
used to give it a kinky appearance at intervals. Made in a variety of
weights. Boucle yarns are usually in both the filling and the warp.
Fabrics are usually springy to handle on account of the highly twisted
yarns used to achieve the boucle effect. Often ravels easily.
Uses: Coats, suits, dresses
Broadcloth
Fiber: Cotton and silk, and rayon. Very different than wool broadcloth.
Weave: Plain weave and in most cotton broadcloths made with a very fine
crosswise rib weave.
Characteristics: Originally indicated a cloth woven on a wide loom.
Very closely woven and in cotton, made from either carded or combed
yarns. The filling is heavier and has less twist. It is finer than
poplin when made with a crosswise rib and it is lustrous and soft with
a good texture. Thread count ranges from high quality 144 x 6 count
down to 80 x 60. Has a smooth finish. May be bleached, dyed, or
printed; also is often mercerized. Wears very well.
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Cashmere
A soft fabric made of the fine, downy wool growing beneath the outer
hair of the Cashmere goat.
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Cotton
A natural vegetable fiber of great economic importance as a raw
material for cloth. Its widespread use is largely due to the ease with
which its fibers are spun into yarns. Cotton's strength, absorbency,
and capacity to be washed and dyed also make it adaptable to a
considerable variety of textile products. It is one of the world's
major textile fibers.
Cotton Brocade
Fiber: Cotton brocade often has the ground of cotton and the pattern of
rayon and silk. Pattern is in low relief.
Weave: Jacquard and dobby
Characteristics: Rich, heavy, elaborate design effect. Sometimes with
colored or metallic threads making the design usually against a satin
weave background. This makes the figures stand out. The figures in
brocade are rather loose, while in damask the figure threads are
actually bound into the material. The pattern may be satin on a twill
ground or twill on a satin ground. Often reversible. The motifs may be
of flowers, foliage, scrollwork, pastoral scenes, or other designs. The
price range is wide. Generally reputed to have been developed from the
Latin name "brocade" which means to figure.
Uses: All types of evening wear, church vestments, interior
furnishings, and state robes
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Duck
Fiber: Cotton. Originally made in linen.
Weave: Plain, but also crosswise rib.
Characteristics: Also called duck. Name originated in 18th Century when
canvas sails from Britain bore the trademark symbol - a duck. Very
closely woven and heavy, it is the most durable fabric made. There are
many kinds of duck but the heavier weights are called canvas. It may be
unbleached, white, dyed, printed, or painted. Washable, many are
water-proof and wind proof. Made in various weights. AKA Cotton Canvas
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Guipure
Lace
A heavy stiff open lace. Design stands in relief. There is no
background or net, the patterned areas are joined by threads known as
bridges.
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Jacquard
A woven design made with the aid of a jacquard head (this constitutes a
jacquard loom) and may vary from simple, self-colored, spot effects to
elaborate, multicolored all-over effects.
The loom operates a bit like the roller on a player piano. But instead
of notes, it gives instructions to the machine on how to create the
design.
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Lamé
Fiber: Silk or any textile fiber in which metallic threads are used in
the warp or the filling. Lamé is also a trade mark for metallic
yarns.
Weave: Usually a figured weave but could be any.
Characteristics: A fabric with gold or silver threads interwoven. Often
has pattern all over the surface. The shine and glitter of this fabric
makes it suitable for dressy wear. The term comes from the French for
"worked with gold and silver wire".
Uses: Principally for evening wear. a fabric with gold or silver
threads interwoven.
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Linen
Characteristics: Cloth woven from flax. This fiber is taken from the
stalk of the Linum usitaatissimum plant. It is a long, smooth fiber and
is cylindrical in shape. its length varies from 6 to 40 inches but on
average is between 15 and 25 inches. its color is usually off-white or
tan and due to its natural wax content, flax has excellent luster. It
is considered to be the strongest of the vegetable fibers and is highly
absorbent, allowing moisture to evaporate with speed. It conducts heat
well and can be readily boiled. It's wash ability is great, however, it
has poor elasticity and does not easily return to its original shape
after creasing.
Uses: Apparel fabric. When processed into fabric it is called linen.
Linen-look
Various rayons, cottons, synthetics, and blends are woven with threads
of uneven thickness to simulate linen. They lack the cool, firm, yet
soft feel of linen. Their irregularities are too even when seen beside
real linen.
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Mohair
Fiber: From the angora goat. Some has cotton warp and mohair filling
(sometimes called brilliantine). Imitation mohair made from wool or a
blend.
Weave: Plain or twill or knitted.
Characteristics: Angora goat is one of the oldest animals known to man.
It is 2 1/2 times as strong as wool. Goats are raised in South Africa,
Western Asia, turkey, and neighboring countries. Some are in the U.S.A.
Fabric is smooth, glossy, and wiry. Has long wavy hair. Also made in a
pile fabric of cut and uncut loops similar to frieze with a cotton and
wool back and mohair pattern. - Similar to alpaca.
Uses: Linings, pile fabrics, suitings, upholstery fabrics, braids,
dress materials, felt hats, and sweaters.
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Moiré
Fiber: Silk, rayon, cotton.
Weave: Plain or crosswise rib.
Characteristics: Has a watermarked finish. Fairly stiff with body in
most cases. It is produced by passing the fabric between engraved
cylinders which press the design into the material, causing the crushed
and uncrushed parts to reflect the light differently. The pattern is
not permanent, except on acetate rayon.
Uses: After 5 wear, formals, dresses and coats.
Muslin
A smooth delicately woven cotton fabric, used for dresses and curtains.
In the USA, coarser cotton fabrics used for shirts and sheeting are
also called muslins.
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Nylon
Characteristics: This manufactured fiber is very strong and is
resistant to both abrasion and damage from many chemicals. It is
elastic, easy to wash and is quite lustrous. It returns easily to its
original shape and is non-absorbent. It is fast drying, resistant to
some dyes, and resistant to moths and other insects, water,
perspiration and standard dry-cleaning agents.
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Panne
Velvet/Velour
Characteristics: Has a longer or higher pile than velvet, but shorter
than plush. It is pressed flat and has a high luster made possible by a
tremendous roller-press treatment given the material in finishing. Now
often made as knit fabric.
Uses: Many and varied.
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Pile
The nap of the fabric - when the fabric is brushed in one direction it
looks like a different color - velvet and corduroy are classic
examples.
Polyester
Fiber: Any of a group of condensation polymers used to form synthetic
fibers such as Terylene or to make resins and fabric made from such a
polymer.
Characteristics: It is an extremely resilient fiber that is smooth,
crisp and particularly springy. Its shape is determined by heat and it
is insensitive to moisture. It is lightweight, strong and resistant to
creasing, shrinking, stretching, mildew and abrasion. It is readily
washable and is not damaged by sunlight or weather and is resistant to
moths and mildew.
Uses: Many and varied.
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Satin
Characteristics: A fabric of silk or various man-made fibers, with a
glossy surface on one side produced by a twill weave with the
weft-threads almost hidden. Became known in Europe during the 12th, and
13th Centuries in Italy. Became known in England by the 14th Century.
It became a favorite of all court life because of its exquisite
qualities and feel. Usually has a lustrous surface and a dull back. The
luster is produced by running it between hot cylinders. Made in many
colors, weights, varieties, qualities, and degrees of stiffness. A low
grade silk or a cotton filling is often used in cheaper cloths.
Uses: Slips, evening dresses, coats, capes, and jackets, lining
fabrics, millinery, drapes, covers, and pillows, trimmings, etc.
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Selvage
The edge of raw fabric which is unable to fray. Usually has company
information and/or color matching dots on it.
Silk
Characteristics: It is obtained from cocoons of certain species of
caterpillars. It is soft and has a brilliant sheen. It is one of the
finest textiles. It is also very strong and absorbent.
Silk is one of the oldest known textile fibers and, according to
Chinese tradition, was used as long ago as the 27th century BC. The
silkworm moth was originally a native of China, and for about 30
centuries the gathering and weaving of silk was a secret process, known
only to the Chinese.
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Silk Dupionni
Characteristics: Silk yarns made from the cocoon of two silk worms that
have nested together. In spinning, the double strand is not separated
so the yarn is uneven and irregular with a large diameter in places.
Fabric is of silk made in a plain weave. The fabric is very irregular
and shows many slubs - seems to be made in a hit and miss manner. It is
imitated in rayon and some synthetics. Tailors very well.
Silk Habutai
Weave: Plain.
Characteristics: Very light weight and soft. A little heavier than
China Silk, but similar. Sold by weight measure known as "momme" (1
momme = 3.75 g). Made from waste silk that can be twisted. It is piece
dyed or printed and sized. Comes from Japan - originally woven in the
gum on Japanese hand looms. Lighter than shantung.
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Shantung
Fiber: Cotton, silk, rayon, synthetics.
Weave: Plain.
Characteristics: It is a raw silk made from Tussah silk or silk waste,
depending on the quality. It is quite similar to pongee, but has a more
irregular surface, heavier, and rougher. Most of the slubs are in the
filling direction. Wrinkles quite a bit. Underlining helps to prevent
this as well as slipping at the seams. Do not fit too tightly, if long
wear is expected. Comes in various weights, colors and also printed.
Uses: Dresses, suits, and coats.
Shot Taffeta
Characteristics: Usually plain weave, woven with one color in the warp
and another color in the filling, which gives the fabric an iridescent
look. If fabric is moved in the light this color changes. Silk version
of chambray.
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Silk Tussah
Weave: Usually plain but also in twill.
Characteristics: Made from wild or uncultivated silkworms. It is
coarse, strong, and uneven. Dull luster and rather stiff. Has a rough
texture with many slubs, knots, and bumps. It is ecru or tan in color
and it is difficult to bleach. It usually doesn't take an even dye
color. Wears well and becomes more rough looking with wear. It wrinkles
a little, but not as much as some. Various weights. Appears in filament
and staple form.
Uses: In lighter weights, dresses. In heavier weights, coats and suits
and ensembles.
Suede Cloth
Fiber: Wool, cotton, rayon, synthetics and blends.
Weave: Plain, twill, or knitted.
Characteristics: Napped on one side to resemble suede leather. Short,
close nap gives a soft, smooth hand. When made in cotton, it resembles
duvetyne, but heavier.
Uses: Cleaning cloths, gloves, linings, sports coats.
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Transparent
Velvet
Characteristics: Lightweight, very soft, draping velvet made with a
silk or rayon back and a rayon pile.
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Tricotine
Fiber: Worsted, wool, rayon, blends with synthetics.
Weave: 63 twill, left to right (double).
Characteristics: Has a double twill rib on the face of the cloth. Has a
very clear finish. It drapes well, and tailors easily. Medium in
weight. Has exceptional wearing qualities. Very much like cavalry
twill, but finer. In the same family as whipcords, coverts, and
gabardines.
Uses: Men's and women's suits and coats. It is also used for ski slacks
in a stretch fabric.
Tropical Worsted Wool
Fiber: 100% worsted. If just called tropical, it can be made up in any
fiber or blends of wool and a synthetic.
Weave: Plain and rather open weaves.
Characteristics: The yarns are very tightly twisted and woven to permit
a free circulation of air. It is lightweight ad is ideal for summer and
tropical wear. It has a clear finish. Wears and tailors very well.
Uses: Both men's and women's suits and coats.
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Tulle
Fiber: Silk, nylon, cotton.
Weave: Gauze, knotted, leno, made on a lace machine.
Characteristics: A soft fine silk etc. net for veils and dresses. First
made by Machine in 1768. Has a hexagonal mesh and is stiff. It is
difficult to launder. Comes is white and colors, and is very cool,
dressy, and delicate.
Uses: It is a stately type of fabric when used for formal wear, and
weddings. It is also used for ballet costumes and wedding veils.
Tweed
Fiber: Wool, also cotton, rayon, silk, linen, and synthetics.
Weave: Twill, novelty variations, or plain.
Characteristics: It is the Scotch name for twill and originated along
the banks of the Tweed river, which separates England from Scotland.
Sometimes known as "tweel". Sister-cloth of homespun cheviot and
Shetland. They are the same in texture, yarn, weight, feel, and use.
Originally only made from different colored stock-dyed fibers,
producing various color effects. There are a wide range of rough
surfaced, sturdy fabrics. There are also some closely woven smoother,
softer yarn fabrics, and many monotone tweeds. May also be plaid,
checked, striped, or other patterns. Does not hold a crease very well.
Uses: Wide range of suits, coats, and sportswear for men, women and
children. Lighter weight, used for dresses.
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Twill
Weave: A fabric so woven as to have a surface of diagonal parallel
ridges
Velour
Fiber: Cotton, wool, or spun rayon.
Weave: Thick, plush pile, with a plain or satin ground, or sometimes
knitted.
Characteristics: The pile is characterized by uneven lengths (usually
two) which gives it a rough look. The two lengths of pile create light
and shaded areas on the surface. A rather pebbled effect. This type of
velour was invented and made in Lyons, France, in 1844. "Velours" is
the French term for velvet. "Cotton velour" is simply cotton velvet.
Uses: Hats, dressing gowns, dresses, waist-coats, upholstery. Now most
commonly sold as knit velour.
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Velvet
Fiber: Silk, rayon, cotton, synthetics, and a little wool and worsted.
Weave: Pile, made with an extra warp yarn.
Characteristics: A closely woven fabric of silk, cotton, etc., with a
thick short pile on one side. Mostly made with a plain back but some
with a twill. Some are made with a silk pile and a rayon or cotton
back. Comes in many types, qualities, and weights. Good velvet wears
fairly well but is expensive. The cheaper cloths give little service
and look well only a few times before beginning to deteriorate. Better
velvet may be crush resistant, water resistant, and drapes well. Has to
be handled with care, and pressed on a velvet board. Cut all one way.
For the maximum amount of depth in the color, cut with the pile running
up. It also wears better when cut this way. Velvet should be cut with
very simple lines in the garment, so as not to destroy the beauty of
the fabric. It has the tendency to add weight to the figure.
Uses: All types of evening wear, at home wear, draperies, upholstering.
Velveteen
Fiber: Cotton, sometimes rayon.
Weave: Filling pile, very short.
Characteristics: Woven with an extra filling yarn with either a plain
or a twill back (twill back is the best). Warp yarns 80/inch - weft
ranges from 175 to 600 depending on the desired density of the pile.
Mercerized with a durable finish. Strong and takes hard wear. Poor
quality rubs off. Some of it can be laundered. It is warm. Comes in all
colors, gradually piece dyed or may be printed. Has to be cut all one
way. Press carefully, preferably on a velvet board, or tumble dry after
laundering (no pressing needed).
Uses: Children's wear, dresses, coats, draperies, lounge wear,
separates.
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Wool Broadcloth
Weave: Usually a twill with a two up and one down construction. Some
also in the plain weave.
Characteristics: Has a napped face, closely sheared and polished,
producing a silky gloss - in same group of fabrics as kersey, beaver
cloth, melton. One way nap, must be handled like velvet when cutting.
It comes in a variety of colors and weights. It is "dressy" fabric and
must be handled with care - form fitting and drapes well.
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Wool Coating or Coat Wool
The wool is woven, then partially felted and napped or brushed to make
it plusher. It's not as good a wind block as the melton, however it's
lighter weight.
Wool Flannel
Weave: Usually twill, some plain.
Characteristics: Originated in Wales. Soft, with a napped surface that
partially cancels the weave. Dull finish. Made in a variety of weights.
More loosely woven than the worsted flannel with a higher nap and
bulkier hand. Shrinks if not pre-shrunk. Does not shine or hold a
crease. Watch pressing - if pressed too hard, it flattens in the nap.
Comes in many colors, weights, and fancy effects. Sometimes has a
prickly feel when worn. Double-layer wool flannel is comparable to a
lined cloak, but without the potential problems with sagging linings
over time and layers that can twist in opposite directions.
Uses: Blazers, dresses, skirts, suits and coats. Boys suits, jackets,
and shirts. Shirts and sportswear.
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Wool Melton
The wool is treated with heat and pressure to bind fibers together, the
produces a felted fabric which is very dense and wind-resistant.
Worsted Wool Flannel
Weave: Twill
Characteristics: Made in a variety of weights. More closely woven and
harder than the wool flannel. Can have a very slight nap on one side.
Tailors very well. Presses well and holds a hard crease.
Uses: Men's suits, jackets and trousers. Women's coats, suits, skirts,
and tailored dresses.
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